Dear visitors,
You are holding a brochure that offers ten tips for trips from České Budějovice to the surrounding areas. There could be many more suggestions, because our city can boast the fact that it is situated in the beautiful landscape of South Bohemia, which has preserved its charm over the centuries. There are few people who do not come to love this region, who would fail to find a place where they feel good and like to return to. Be it the countless fishponds, creeks and rivers surrounded by colourful fields and meadows alternating with whispering forest and groves, or the history and art of our ancestors captured in the walls of castles, chateaux and fortresses. Everybody must find something appealing in this beautiful land. Just choose the right direction, set off and then perceive and be inspired. We hope this brochure helps you find that special place that you will love to return to again and again.
1. On the Dykes of the Vrbenský Ponds – A Bird’s Paradise Within Sight of the Suburbs
First off, let us offer an easy walk using public transport, along reinforced and asphalt trails. It is suitable for families with small children, prams, the elderly or disabled, even in rainy weather. Unlike most of the other trails, it is also suitable for cyclists. The educational trail is 4 km long, continuing over another 4 km to Haklovy Dvory and another 3 km to the trolleybus stop in the Máj suburb.
Walk from the end station of bus no. 19 in České Vrbné. The nature trail runs along the dykes of ponds shaded by ancient oak trees. The largest pond, Černiš, dates back to the mid-15th Century, with the other following in rapid succession. The ten stops along the nature trail will present the flora, fauna and other places of interest in the Vrbenské rybníky natural reserve. This 246-hectare, unique biologically diverse complex of water, marshland and grassland ecosystems including water fowl nesting grounds is within sight of the city with 100 000 inhabitants. It is an exceptional example of ecologically-acceptable economic use of marshlands in the past and present.
After viewing the nature trail, you can follow the blue hiking trail through grasslands and the dykes of other fishponds to the Haklovy Dvory settlement on the outskirts. While waiting for bus no. 1, you can examine the picturesque facades of several moor-style estates.
The more athletic among you can continue further along the blue trail over fields, meadows and the nearby forest to the end stop of trolleybuses no. 3 and 17 in the Máj suburb.
2. Rudolf’s City – In the Tracks of the Silver Mines
This moderately difficult trail is designed for average hikers, families with children and stronger seniors. It passes mainly along reinforced and asphalt trails, and with the exception of several short segments, it is also suitable for baby prams. We suggest taking this trip in early June during the Mining Festivities, when all sorts of attractions will be prepared for visitors.
Both circuits of the nature trail are 4.5 km long and marked (contrary to custom) with the symbol of crossed hammers on a white or green field, starting from the end of city bus line no. 1 near the church in Rudolfov. A total of 19 well-maintained panels along the nature trail will acquaint you mainly with the history of the town and silver mining. If you intend to take the extended trail, first follow the circuit of hammers on a green field. The path passes a small museum, where you can become even more familiar with the history of the free mining town. Illustrative models of mining equipment are among the attractions. The trail also passes through the former mining town of Adamov and the Hůry municipality and offers several vantage points. The second trail passes along the flank of the Rudolfov Creek valley to Mrhal Fishpond. This pond was built in 1555 as a reservoir to power mining machinery. Now, its cool but clean water tempts hikers to bathe or fish on hot summer days.
From this point, the less surefooted or tired hikers can return along the opposite flank to the bus stop in Rudolfov, while the more agile can continue along the red striped trail across Hlincová Hora with several nice folk agricultural estates to the municipality of Dobrá Voda. Near Dubičné, enjoy the wonderful view of České Budějovice from the ski slope. Dobrá Voda also owes its foundation to mining activities, and gold was mined here in addition to silver. The highlight is the purely Baroque pilgrimage church designed by K. I. Dientzenhofer himself, and lavishly decorated with frescoes and stucco. You can also view the stations of the cross with modern paintings by Renata Štolbová, and refresh yourself with a drink from the alleged healing spring. Buses no. 9 and 10 go to České Budějovice.
Stronger hikers can keep going along the red trail to Srubec (bus no. 13) or even as far as Staré Hodějovice (bus no. 11). This trail runs along the ridge of Lišovský prah and offers a number of views of České Budějovice. Experts may even recognise some subtle remains of mining in the Rudolfov ore fields.
3. The Proud Princess’s Chateau –Hluboká nad Vltavou
This trail is designed for families with children, the elderly and also moderately capable hikers. Therefore, the initial section is outlined in two alternatives.
Take city bus no. 6 or 104 to the municipality of Hosín to the Neo-Roman church of St. Peter and Paul, which is the landmark of the Budějovice fisheries basin. The artful combination of glazed bricks and granite cannot deny its Schwarzenberg court architects. Only real experts will notice the small, inconspicuous side chapel - the remains of the Roman church dating back to the first half of the 12th century. There are beautiful views of the landscape from the staircase terrace.
Hardier tourists will descend steeply along the blue trail past the railway station to the wide valley of the Vltava River, and continue along a flat floodplain to the picturesque village of Opatovice. The street with the village square is lined with charming folk settlements of the moor-land type with granges, while the front is enclosed by a smithy. Continue along the blue path around the Vltava. In a small park near the weir (Pilgrim’s Meadow) at the edge of Hluboká nad Vltavou, do not overlook the flat stone, which serves as a reminder of the execution of the haughty nobleman Záviš of Falkenštejn on 24 August 1290. He wanted to be king, married a queen and was finally beheaded with a board within sight of his relatives’ castle. In front of you, on a steep slope on the site of the castle is the white chateau reaching to the sky, and used in several films. The most famous of these films is probably “The Proud Princess.”
Less robust tourists had better choose the gently descending green trail, passing around interesting cylindrical wayside crosses with the coat of arms of Bathazar de Marradas, and near the peak of Račice Hill (508 m) with one of the most beautiful circular views of the České Budějovice area. Both paths meet near the bridge over the Vltava River, beneath which is a port for sightseeing boats. Continue along the yellow and blue trail along the former mill race, past the sports centre to the heart of Hluboká nad Vltavou. Curious tourists will notice the chateau water plant with preserved original equipment and markings of floods near the summer pool and waterslide, the Neo-Gothic church in the town, the town hall, the old and new office building and other burgher houses. Tired tourists will find numerous opportunities to rest, enjoy a drink, meal and some culture. The tourist trails do not lead directly to the chateau, but there is little chance of getting lost. From the town hall, we ascend past the romantic Štekl hotel (used as the setting for the Hotel Herbich television series) all the way to the chateau. You do not often meet princesses here, but if you have a bit of luck, you may encounter a bride proudly posing for photographers. The romantic chateau in English Windsor Gothic style offers several guided tours. The main tower, which offers a spectacular all-round view, is accessible only several times a year. Those who want more than to see the wealthy artistic collection can visit the neighbouring Aleš South Bohemian Gallery established in the former riding school, with an exhibition of South Bohemian Gothic art, painting and Czech art of the 20th century. A walk through the maintained chateau park is equally pleasant. Near the chateau it is a flower garden that transforms into an English park. The red trail passes through the edge of the park, along which you can return to the town. From there you can take the relatively good bus link to České Budějovice.
The stronger hikers may continue along the yellow trail to the dyke of Munický Fishpond. Across from the gas station, do not overlook the Jewish cemetery, the Baroque statue of St. John of Nepomuk at the intersection and the Baroque chapel of St. Roch at the next intersection, built as thanks for survival of the plague in 1713. The path along the dyke and edge of the fishpond leads to the Baroque hunting chateau Ohrada. From the middle of the 19th Century, it was gradually transformed into a museum of forestry, hunting, fishing, agriculture and rafting. Particularly extensive are the hunting trophies, stuffed animals and products made of antlers. Children will most likely be more attracted to the nearby zoo than the museum collections. It is focussed particularly on fauna found now and before in the nature of South Bohemia, as well as exotic animals.
Before reaching the chateau, examine the 18 historical milestones and continue along the road to Vondrov estate with the typical architecture of Schwarzenberg agricultural buildings – a combination of stone and bricks. Horses graze on the surrounding pastures. From here, continue either along the yellow trail past the Renaissance bastion to the dyke of the cultivation and recreational Bezdrev Fishpond, the second largest in the CR, or to the nearly Hluboká nad Vltavou reservoir on the Pilsen railway. A pyramid relocated from Vondrov has been moved to the station, built in memory of the famous first excavation during construction of the Cheb – Vienna railway line by Count Schwarzenberg on 17 December 1866. We suggest that only very strong hikers continue along the yellow and green trail from Bezdrev to České Budějovice – it is another 27 km of walking. A more suitable extension of the trip would be to continue from the train station along the blue train to the Vltava River, and along it taking the red trail against the current through the village historical zone of folk architecture in Bavorovice to the turning point for buses to České Vrbné, a total of 8 km.
4. Around the World
This very easy trail is designed for families with children, seniors, invalids and spa guests, who can have little or even no experience of hiking.
In the famous novel by Jules Verne, it takes Phileas Fogg eighty, respectively 81 days to travel around the world. It will only take you about three or four hours, and you need not hurry.
A long-distance coach will take us to the pearl among the fishponds - Třeboň. Those who prefer to travel by train must expect poorer connections and transfers. From the bus or train station, the city signs will lead us through the city centre to the Aurora spa facility, founded in 1975 on the western edge of the town. Closer to the banks of the Svět Fishpond (which translates as “World”) in front of the largest Třeboň hotel Bohemia Regent, stands the first information panel on the “Around the World” nature trail. Motorised tourists can park here easily. You will be walking around the Svět Fishpond on all types of surfaces. First, the trail leads along a park path, then a meadow path, joist sidewalk, field and forest road, asphalt road, park path and the pond dyke. On the information panels, you will find out about the interesting natural features, architecture, history of the spas, town and other buildings in an unobtrusive manner. You will walk through the spa park, meadows and past the peat bog, which peat used to be excavated for Berta’s Spas, round the fish hatchery in Horní Zlatník Pond, the Spolský Mill from the year 1861, the V Rájích nature reserves that protects a marsh with carnivorous plants, a pine grove and among fields. The brilliant white buildings of the Odměny hamlets are a nice example of the “country Baroque” stucco decoration of facades. In nice weather, the Ostende swimming hole will tempt you to take a dip. The small cemetery near the Gothic church of St. Gilles with a Baroque onion cupola contains the grave of famous traveller Jiří Hanzelka. Continue past the Baroque status of the Guardian Angel along the park path to the neighbouring English park, which conceals the unique multi-storeyed Neo-Gothic Schwarzenberg tomb dating back to 1875-1877. Its floor is below the level of the surface of Svět Fishpond. Thanks to the technical skill of the court architect Damasius Deworetzký, 27 members of the family rest here in double-walled zinc coffins in absolute dryness. The upper floor houses the lavish Chapel of the Divine Redeemer. The trail crosses a road near the refreshment stand along a narrow stretch to the dyke. In the times of Krčín of Jelčany, Svět Fishpond was connected to the neighbouring Opatovický Fishpond here and crossing was possible only over a wooden bridge.
Finally, you can see up close Svět Fishpond founded in the years 1571-1574 with a water area of 201 ha. Its waters flooded the Svinenské suburbs and several villages, for which the subjects probably were not very grateful, hence the original name of Ingratitude. The 722 m dyke, bent at several points, withstood the flood in 2002. Walking along the fishpond dyke in the shade of ancient oaks, you will reach the Svinenská Gate to the historical heart of Třeboň. There are two monuments at the bend in the dyke – the larger and newer of the two depicts the proudly poised fishpond designer and Renaissance manager Jakub Krčín of Jelčany and Sedlčany (1535-1604) by J. Hendrych, determinedly viewing his work. Slightly apart stands the smaller monument of stones with a bronze plaque and emblem of the fishpond researcher - founder of modern carp cultivation, Josef Šusta (1835-1914) by Prof. V. Suchomel. Here, you can either decide to finish the circuit around the pond all the way to Bohemia Regent Hotel before returning to České Budějovice, or you can pass through the Svinenská Gate past the Regent brewery and view the town’s historical reserve – the chateau grounds with a park, the square with a Marian column, town hall and burgher houses, the national cultural monument of the Augustinian convent and the fortifications with gates and bastions.
5. Greetings from Kleť on a Comet
This moderate to very difficult trail is designed for sturdy hikers, families with children and agile seniors. It leads mainly along reinforced forest roads, and to some degree along paths and asphalt roads.
This time, you will exploit the railway during your hike. Those who are less hardy can descend from the train at the Holubov station. Follow the green trail through Krasetín to the bottom of the gondola and take it up the mountain.
Stronger and curious hikers will continue from the bottom funicular station along the green trail a little way past the junction of the paths near the tunnel (U Tunelu), where the nature trail “Around Kleť” joins up. Here, turn off the green trail to the nature trail, and continue along the yellow path to the peak of the mountain, going against the numbering of the nature signs. While walking along the edge of the nature reserve, the information panels will acquaint you with the natural places of interest. One of these is the Žebříkový kámen cliff cabin, whose German name was used by the German hiking association Die Leitersteiner, founded in České Budějovice in 1906. You will also walk past the television transmitter.
The hardiest tourists will walk all the way to the Plešovice stop, where they can view the rounded village square lined with pretty folk estates, which allegedly served as a model during the production of sets for the first performance of the Bartered Bride at the National Theatre. Then walk up the steeper yellow trail to the peak. They can also ride all the way to Zlatá Koruna station. About 1 km in the opposite direction from Kleť is an exceptional national cultural monument – the extensive compound of the Zlatá Koruna (Golden Crown) Cistercian convent founded by Přemysl Otakar II in 1263. After a tour, return by the blue and red trail to the station and ascend briskly to the top past the Kokotín hamlet.
At the peak of the highest mountain of the Blanský Forest, it is always good manners to visit the 18 m stone, Neo-Gothic lookout tower from the year 1825, one of the oldest in the country, which is open year-round. Enjoy the stunning all-round view of the surrounding peaks in Blanský Forest, Šumava and its foothills, Novohradské Mountains, the České Budějovice basin (the regional city is often clouded with smog), the Czech-Moravian highlands, the Central Bohemian hills, and part of the Austrian Alps when visibility is good. Refreshments and the key to the lookout tower are available from Tereza’s tourist lodge, dating back to 1925. The landmark on the mountain is the 172 m television transmitter from the years 1974-1977. Several cliff towers and a sundial are worth viewing. We also recommend visiting the world-famous observatory, focussed mainly on the research of small planets (almost one thousand confirmed discoveries) and comets (Mrkos, P/2000 U6 Tichý).
To descend from Kleť, it is best to take the red trail and then switch to the blue train at the Bílý kámen junction. At the “U modrého obrazu” junction, do not forget to look at the renovated painting, but turn off onto the forest nature trail to the small lookout tower on the flank of Granátník Mountain. You can also use the green trail to descend to the train station in Český Krumlov, in combination with the yellow trail if you like. If there is time left until the train arrives, you can descend into the down, or at least as far as the Paraplíčko lookout point which offers a fantastic view of the municipal historical reserve and UNESCO heritage site of Český Krumlov.
You can also use any of the trails described above, which you did not use in your ascent, to return to the train station.
6. Maiden’s Stone
This moderately difficult train is designed for hardier hikers, families with children and the elderly. It leads mainly along an artificial path, over field and reinforced roads and to some degree long asphalt roads and streets. Many parts of the trail run along the international hiking trail E10, which connects the Baltic Sea to the Mediterranean. This walk follows up loosely on hike no. 5 Greetings from Kleť…, and sturdier tourists can join the two or parts of them.
Once again, you will use the Czech Rail services for our trip. The train will take you to Zlatá Koruna. Turn your back towards Kleť and take the red trail along the road and street to descend to the town’s centre. From the junction, continue along the blue trail. In Zlatá Koruna first take a look at the remains of the fortifications and former lay church of St. Margaret from the years 1330-1340. Its Gothic foundation and original purpose were not perfectly hidden even after reconstruction into a match factory and residential building. In 1855, the company Bernard Fürth Sušice produced the first “Swedish match” here used to this day. In the heart of the town, do not overlook the late Gothic former “Hospice” with stepped gables, the armoury with its steep roof, the former smithy and other buildings of medieval foundation. The undeniable gemstone is the national cultural monument - the extensive compound of the Trnová Koruna Cistercian convent founded by Přemysl Otakar II in 1263 as a dam against the expansion of the Lords of the Rose (Páni z Růže). Worth noting is particularly the triple-nave convent cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary dating back to the late 13th century. Equally valuable is the multi-storeyed chapel of the Guardian Angels from the 1280s with a stairwell, which today leads to nowhere. A detailed description of the individual monuments would be enough for a whole book. Following the tour, return to the junction following the blue trail, and then take the red train (which you left for a while) to descend a path to the Vltava River. In Strouha, notice the lovely country Baroque building. Ascend gradually to Plešovice, where you can see the rounded village square lined with pretty folk estates, which allegedly served as a model during the production of sets for the first performance of the Bartered Bride at the National Theatre. The trail continues along a road and path to the Třísov station. Nearby is the start of a nature trail, which brings you to the historical Třísov linden tree, with a circumference of 7 metres, and a chapel dating back to 1777. Behind the chapel you can see the bulwarks and trenches of the Oppida – Celtic town of Abiluon, which spread across the peninsula surrounded by the meandering Vltava River and Křemžský Creek in the 1st century B.C. Enthusiasts improved the acropolis with a replica of the deity. The nature trail leads through the middle of the archaeological historical reserve to the canoeing camp near the Vltava River and across Křemžský Creek beneath the castle cliff. You can follow the red trail to the ruins of Dívčí Kámen (Maiden’s Stone) along a shorter, but steeply descending route. In 1349, the Rožmberks built a castle to protect their lands on the site of the former . It decayed in the first half of the 16th Century. In 1394, King Wenceslas IV was imprisoned there briefly by the lords’ unit. Today, you can walk up and view the ruins after paying the admission fee. A tunnel with pipes leads through the nape of the castle cliff, used to bring water from the reservoir on Křemžský Creek to the power plant on the banks of Vltava River.
Sturdy tourists can continue from the castle on the red E10 trail along the Vltava River to Boršov nad Vltavou, and return to České Budějovice using city transport. This trail is named after the chairman of the department and Šumava district KČST Ing. Emanuel Fritsch (1874 - 1956), who organised its gradual construction in the years 1931 – 1938. Construction work is evident in the cliffs between the U Rybů hamlet and the quarry in Boršov, and at other points between Boršov and Zlatá Koruna.
Other walkers can continue along the nature trail and the yellow trail through the valley against the current of Křemžský Creek to the Artypa paper mill, and then ascend steeply to the Holubov train station.
7. A Stop in the Novohradské Mountains
This easy to moderately difficult trail is designed for less robust hikers, families with children and the elderly. It takes you mainly along a path, field and reinforced roads and to some degree along an asphalt road. The expedition will take you to the unfairly overlooked and beautiful Novohradské Mountains.
This time, take a ČSAD Jihotrans bus. Hardy tourists will travel through Trhové Sviny and Nové Hrady to Hojná Voda. At the resort and former spa, founded by William of Rožmberk next to an alleged healing spring and dating back to 1564, you can taste the water from several fountains. His wooden hunting lodge, the church of St. Anne and the house where writer Zikmund Winter spent his summers in the years 1893-1910 have not been preserved to this day. You can only see the valuable Baroque status of St. John Nepomucký from the second half of the 18th Century and the prism-shaped three-storey belfry, which allegedly dates back to the year 1359 when it served as a watchtower. Hojná Voda offers hikes to Kuní Mountain, the 1000 metre Vysoká Mountain with numerous cliffs and to the oldest protected territory in Europe – the Hojná Voda nature reserve. The protection of the primeval edible beech forest was declared by Count Jiří Buquoy on 23 August 1838, and is currently a part of the more remote and better-know Žofínský Primeval Forest. Ascend steeply up Kraví Mountain along the green trail. Stop to view the bizarre 10 m grandiorite cliff formation “Napoleon’s Head.” 133 steps will take you up to the 32 m high steel lookout tower with views of Novohradské Mountains, the Třeboň and České Budějovice fishing basins. Descend to Dobrá Voda along the red trail.
Less hardy tourists will get off the bus at Dobrá Voda and along with the stronger hikers will undoubtedly head straight for the local landmark - the Baroque pilgrim's church of the Assumption of the Virgin from the years 1708-15 with a cloister. Inside, you can admire the lavish fresco and stucco decorations. Do not forget to taste the delicious and allegedly healing water under the grand stone staircase. Then enjoy a stunning view of the foothills of the Novohradské Mountains and Třeboň basin. First steeply and then gradually, descend from the ridge along the red trail. Do not forget to turn round a few times, to indulge in views of the monumentally situated church. The central village or rather town of Horní Stropnice has a valuable Baroque Marian column on the square with four statues dating back to 1765, and the architecturally valuable, originally Roman parish church of St. Nicholas. It was founded in the first half of the 13th century, and the tower with the choir and integrated windows, the access balcony and scuncheons in the rear wall of the nave have been preserved from that period. The adjacent local district of Bedřichov down the road to Dobrá Voda is a village of historical folk architecture. Continue along the originally Gothic Cuknštejn citadel from the years 1488-1491, with an octagonal tower and rectangular courtyard with porches and arcades. The pure style of construction was last renovated in Renaissance style after 1620, and is finally being repaired after years of decay. After the citadel, enter the Terčino údolí (Theresa’s Valley) historical nature reserve. The natural landscaped park was founded based on the initiative of Countess Terezie Buquoyová in 1756, and originally contained a large number of rare exotic tree species. Walk past the ancient oak tree, the Empire-style “Little Spas” and the former hammer mill, now boarding houses. In the park, you will also find the grand entrance gate, the Swiss House with a view of Nové Hrady, an artificial waterfall that transforms into stunning ice-falls in winter, the ruins of the Blue House and a number of interesting natural features, all linked by a 5.5 km long nature trail, which cuts into your route. Sturdier tourists can turn off onto it if they do not want to miss the experience. Walk past a nicely renovated Renaissance brewery dating back to 1592 and ascend along the flank of the chateau hill to Nové Hrady, the municipal historical zone.
First tour the Old Castle from the second half of the 13th century. According to several historians, its towers may originally be Romanesque. Inside the natural historical monument is an open exhibition. Walk past the newly renovated smithy to the square. Here, your attention will be drawn to the originally Renaissance town hall from the 16th century, renovated in Baroque style in the mid-18th Century, several houses with Gothic or Renaissance foundations and the whole eastern front taken up by the newly repaired Baroque count’s residence from the years 1634-1644. The valuable, late Gothic church of St. Peter and Paul from the 16th century with some Renaissance elements is linked by a corridor to the neighbouring Servites monastery. The three-winged Empire-style New Chateau from the years 1801-10 with a valuable park is purposefully exploited. Also worth seeing are the remains of the fortifications with the Lower Gate and vault of the Buquoy family at the cemetery from the years 1890-1892, designed by the architect of the National Theatre, Josef Schulz, with a mosaic by Max Švabinský in the tympanum.
If you are hurrying back, walk to the nearby bus station from the main intersection near the castle. Sturdier tourists can walk along the 3 km nature trail to the Sokolí hnízdo estate, starting at the school near the Old Castle, or continue along the blue trail through the forests around Čertův Pond with the ancient Devil's Oak and along the fishpond dykes to the train station in Petříkov.
8. In the Footsteps of the Hussite General
This easy to moderately difficult trail is designed for less sturdy tourists, families with children and the elderly. It runs mainly along a path, field and reinforced roads, and to some degree along tarmac roads.
Once again, you will use the bus service ČSAD Jihotrans. The bus goes to the starting point in Trhové Sviny almost every hour on weekdays. In the town, take a look at the rectangular square with a number of burgher houses with arcades including the town hall, the monument to local brass music composer Karel Valdauf and the plaque on the nearby school commemorating the birthplace of another local, attorney and former president JUDr. Emil Hácha. However, the most important monument is the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin with an early Gothic portal, mentioned as early as 1317, and rebuilt in the years 1485-1520 in late Gothic style with a triple nave a valuable netted vaults. Nearby there used to be a castle, which was burned down by the Hussite armies in 1420 and 1422. Take the blue trail and notice a cross of reconciliation at the intersection in nearby Otěvěk. Turn off to Čeřejov, where the sculptured coat of arms and wording on the bronze plaque states that “This was the site of the estate of Jan Žižka, Duke of Trocnov.” The estate belonged to his wife Kateřina. Cross the little Stropnice River, and in Ostrolovský Újezd look at the nicely renovated fortifications, then continue along the blue trail to Trocnov. The natural grounds of the birthplace of Jan Žižka is dominated by a monumental 13 m stone monument with a statue of Žižka by J. Malejovský from 1960. Nearby, a monument of boulders from the year 1908 marks the place where, according to tradition, the General was born in 1360. The 1 km trail marked with yellow letters goes past the foundations of two ducal farmsteads (Mikeš’s and Žižka’s) from the 14th and 15th centuries, uncovered in 1921-1937 and 1956. All this is supplemented by a museum exhibition in the former hunting lodge, originally a Baroque landed estate dating from 1679, and welcome refreshments.
En route to Borovany, renowned for the exploitation and processing of siliceous soil, you can examine the private “Iron Curtain” folk museum, which is one of the stops on the “Totalitarianism Divides” nature trail. Today, the watchtower would serve only to guard the sole access road to the nearby swimming hole and Borovanský mlýn boarding house.
The southern side of the square is the site of the Augustinian monastery with the late Gothic Church of the Assumption of the Virgin. The late Baroque three-winged prelature was reconstructed into a chateau in 1785, which served as a school until recently. The park houses a massive protected cornel. On the opposite side is the early Baroque town hall with two gables, a tower and the town’s coat of arms. In the middle of the square stands a granite pillory from the year 1656 and a monument to Jana Žižka from the year 1892, one of the oldest that has been preserved in the country. Borovany is a rare example of the non-conflicting blending of rural and urban architecture, with a valuable collection of rural folk estates. Worth noting is the stone bridge over the Stropnice River, somewhat distant from the town centre, built in the 1867 with a Baroque statue of St. John of Nepomuk, and a 1936 D2 model reinforced concrete bunker, part of the 1st line of the border defences.
You can return to České Budějovice by bus or continue to the train station along the red trail.
9. Through Biblical Lands
This light trail, moderately difficult in a few sections only, is designed for less sturdy tourists, families with children and the elderly . It runs mainly along a path, field, reinforced and panel roads and to some degree along asphalt roads.
Once again, you will take the ČSAD Jihotrans bus to the town of Římov, a pilgrimage site of national importance. It was developed gradually in the years 1648-1705, when the domain was obtained by the Krumlov Jesuits in 1626 as a donation from the noble Eggenberg family. First you should visit the Loreto Chapel (Svatá Chýše) concealing a statue of the Black Madonna surrounded by cloisters with the Church of the Holy Ghost, all in Baroque style lavishly decorated with frescoes. Near the hotel, try to put your arms around the historical large-leaved linden tree, which fitted 55 people in its cavity on 14 April 1997. The circumference of the trunk is 730 cm (at a height of 130 cm), it is 14 m tall and about 450 years old. Not far from the municipal office and information centre, you can examine the courtyard of a Baroque one-storey chateau, originally a Jesuit residence from the years 1671-1685. The core of the west wing is the remains of a medieval fortress, while the tower dates back to 1691. In 1824-1825, František Antonín Gerstner designed and managed from this location the construction of the nearby horse-drawn railway, the 1st railway on the European continent. A somewhat different model railway can be seen in Roubenka, recorded as far back as 1628, and in its current form to 1779. Since 2001 it has been the “Římov Locomotive” Museum. Nearby is the start of the green circuit and nature trail of the Římov Passions Route. It will lead us along the stations of the cross. A total of 25 chapels, small chapels and statues set in the rolling landscape of Římov, dating back to the years 1658-1720, imitates the landscape of Jerusalem on a miniature scale. They are all linked by the green hiking trail, 5.5 km in length with a turnoff to the Slavic fortress of Branišovice and the oldest chapel of the Divine Sepulchre of 1658 under the dam. The individual stops familiarise pilgrims with the suffering and death of Jesus Christ – meaning that is was also an trail in the Middle Ages. The unique Baroque depiction of the sacral landscape was declared a historical zone in 1996.
Less hardy tourists and drivers can return home after going through the circuit. Sturdier hikers can continue on the yellow trail along the water reservoir to Velešín. The earth dam is 290 m long and 47.5 m high and dates back to 1974-1978. It holds 34.5 mil. m3 of water. This water (at 1400 l/s) is conducted to the Plav treatment plant through pipes in a tunnel that is 10 km long. The backwater, up to 13.6 km in length, conceals at the bottom the demanding tourist trail from České Budějovice to the Pořešín ruins, built by the Czech Tourist Club under the management of Ing. Emanuel Fritsch in 1938 – 1943.
In the town of Velešín, walk up to the viewpoint on the water tower. The ruins of Velešín Castle on the opposite bank are concealed among the trees. Do not overlook the early Gothic dean's church of St. Wenceslas, the chaplain’s house no. 20 with a late Gothic bay window and saddle portal. In the lower part of the wedge-shaped square, you will pass round the column of the Virgin Mary with statues of the saints, in the middle past the former Church of St. Philip and Jacob which was transformed into apartment after being cancelled by Emperor Joseph II. In the park near the birthplace of Renaissance poet Josef Vlastimil Kamarýt is a monument. On the opposite corner of the square, do not miss the late Renaissance town hall from the year 1611, supplemented in the second half of the 18th century with two Baroque gables, the town’s coat of arms and a bust of T. G. Masaryk. Follow the blue trail around the Jihostroj industrial compound to the Velešín – Městys train station. Only a few steps along the railway track, the original bridges of the horse-drawn railway are preserved on both sides. There is even a dusty replica of the railway track near the former carriage house (now the U koňské dráhy boarding house). If the train is a long time in coming, continue along the blue trail past the tacky Neo-Gothic boarding house and the former assisting station at Holkov, which is gradually being repaired, to the Holkov train station. If you still have time until the departure, walk along the blue trail up to the junction with the yellow, and then along the tracks past the guard house. Among the tree is the third, almost forgotten original bridge of the horse-drawn railway. Return along the same route. You could continue along the blue trail all the way to Kamenný Újezd, but that would exceed the framework of today’s offer.
10. On the Wet Vltava Highway
Our tip for a boating trip is strongly limited. There are few opportunities for boating from České Budějovice. Only the Vltava River comes into consideration, because the Malše beneath the Římov Dam is navigable only exceptionally and only by experienced canoeists.
This one-day boating trip starts in the traditional Nové Spolí camp just above Český Krumlov. It is one of the options for spending the night on a multi-day trip from Vyšší Brod. Having barely set off, we have to carry or trek on the right over the first weir under the covered wooden footbridge Na rechlích (On the Rakes). Rakes were once used to catch floating timber, and were operated here until 1594. Their current appearance is based on a project by the famous architect of the Schwarzenberg Canal, Ing. Rosenauer from the period around 1800. Just past the road bridge, we carry or trek on the right over another weir, U Liry. When the water level is higher, skilled canoeists can pass through the flash on the left. The municipal historical reserve with the Český Krumlov Chateau is among the most important historical and architectural grounds in Europe, and was therefore added to the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites. A description of all the interesting features would fill up a whole book.
There are two difficult weirs in the historical centre, and we suggest that less experienced boaters carry the canoe along the right-hand gap in the narrowest part of the nape, far beneath the Růže Hotel and museum, called the Mouse Hole. In doing so, you can look at another covered footbridge while passing under a two-storey bridge. The only disadvantage is that you will miss out on the lovely view of the natural cultural monument of the chateau, the three-storey Cloak Bridge, the monumental late Gothic Church of St. Vitus and other dominant town buildings located mainly on the high cliff wall. The question is whether you would have the time and mood to do so during the strenuous paddling on the “oil” of the weir pools, carrying the boats over the weirs or navigating the difficult flashes. If your friends are willing to watch the boats, it is better to tour the unique monuments on foot. Before boarding again, cast a glance at the chateau and the Baroque church tower of the former Hospital of St. Jost. Round a curve, you pass by the Latrán city district, which actually forms the lower grounds of the chateau and castle. Of the individual buildings, your attention is sure to be drawn by the city bastions from the early 16th century, part of the monastery of St. Francis and St. Claire with the Church of the Holy Body, and undoubtedly by the Regent brewery, the core of which was established in 1625 around the widow’s residence of Anne of Roggendorf in the 1560s. The U jatek weir past the bridge near the bastion is negotiable without major problems. From the left flows the Polečnice River which may look like a mere creek but devastated Nové and Staré Dobrkovice in the flood of 2002. Nearby, you see the Renaissance Budějovice Gate from the years 1596-1598, the three-arc stone bridge with two chapels and the medieval Vošáhlík mill, transformed into a department store. Passing under the road bridge you will soon leave the city.
The river twists and turns among cliffs. About 5 km later, you will pass by the rocky Chabičovické Slopes with mixed forests on the right, the legal protection of which is in the works, and then bounce over a few rapids. The opposite Sedm špicí cliffs are climbing terrain. Following a short straight segment, the originally late Roman church of St. Mary Magdalene from the second half of the 13th century will appear on the right in Černice, and behind it more climbing cliffs. The Hacienda refreshment stand near the hamlets is on the left. Pass under Rájovský Bridge, where the former ford creates a navigable step, leaving the village of Rájov behind you on the left. From here to the U Cáby hamlet, the river forms the boundary of the protected landscape area of Blanský Forest. Do not even think of camping in the wild or making a fire on the banks. Soon, the panorama of Zlatá Koruna starts spreading out before you. The local weir flash is navigable for more experienced boaters. The major campsite offers refreshments, with additional hospitality services in the nearly municipality. You will pass almost all the way round the historical cultural monument of the Zlatá Koruna monastery grounds, but from the river you will mostly see the agricultural buildings surrounding it between the trees. In the next segment between Zlatá Koruna and the U Rybů weir, you must expect frequent rapids and stones in the river, unlike the previous segment. At the end of the turn, notice the nice recess chapel and peasant Baroque style cottages on the left, which hiking trail no. 6 passes round. On the right you will see the Rohan Cliff with mixed forests on the rocky slope, another protected landscape proposed for declaration. More woody, rocky slopes on the left are protected as the first zone of the Blanský Forest protected landscape area. Another turn takes you past an extensive peninsula with an area of 26 ha, where the Celtic oppidum (settlement) of Třísov used to be situated – for details see Route No. 6. It does not look interesting at all from the river. Far more interesting is the refreshment stand U Maringotky on the right bank and the natural scree fir mixed forest Čertova stráň, a proposed protected landscape that includes an almost invisible medieval stronghold. Almost past the oppidum, you pass the camping site and the romantic ruins of the Gothic Maiden’s Stone (Dívčí Kámen) castle appears before you (described in Route No. 6), beneath which the Křemžský Creek flows into the Vltava. You pass by the U Cáby hamlet, leaving the Blanský les protected landscape area. There is nothing left of the Pozděraz weir, and instead of the mill dating back to 1389, there is a tasteless cottage. You have to paddle yourself to the opposite preserved ferry cottage U Rybáka. The inimitable atmosphere of the now ugly place is preserved only in the paintings of Adolf Trägr, who visited the miller Kizbis here frequently in the 1930s and 1940s. They are on display at the South Bohemian Museum. Another refreshment stand serves boaters at this point. The mouth of Rančický Creek on the right conceals a cave and extensive cottage colony. Past the sharp crook turning the river current back towards the west, you can see the minute remains of the wall of Maškovec Castle on the crumbling cliff, recorded as far back as1380, and mentioned as derelict in 1493. In the first half of the 19th century, it was sold out by the greedy owner as building stone. The last rapids and “oil” will take us to the torn weir and U Rybů hamlet. Unfortunately, it no longer stands alone, for there are many cottages on both banks. On the left-hand side in the cliff, you can see the modifications of Fritsch’s path, which was constructed by the Czech Tourist Club in the 1930s. The Záhorčice fortress is well hidden in the forest on the cliff. It is better to carry the boats over u Zátkova mlýn weir along the left-hand side past the new small power plant. The fully operational power plant on the right is used by the leading Central European producer of pasta and mill products, Bratří Zátkové, spol.s r.o., with a tradition dating back to 1869. At the end of the woods on the left, a large boating camping site offers complete services. The landmark of Boršov nad Vltavou is the valuable, late Gothic Church of St. James the Greater with a typical chiselled roof. The municipality offers boaters a number of restaurant facilities. Pass under the brand new road bridge and if you like, you can terminate the trip just past the railway bridge. The station is nearby. You have travelled 37 km.
Otherwise, carefully go through the remains of the broken weir, glimpse the Baroque three-winged chateau in the local district of Poříčí with an equally neglected park and rare yellow poplar. Behind the sharp bend is another road bridge and weir, easily navigable through the flash in the middle. The same applies to the weir in the Rožnov town section, the heart of which is a village historical reserve of folk architecture. You might even be able to see at least the rear tracts of the well-maintained farmsteads, whose core is in the Renaissance style. Finally, you have reached your destination in České Budějovice. the boats must be carried over the weirs Trilčův, Jiráskův and České Vrbné. The raft sluice gates with a retarder are closed and few would make it through without injury. The route is an admirable 45 km all the way to the confluence with the Malše River.
Naturally, it would be possible to continue another 9.3 km to Hluboká nad Vltavou, but the river is not interesting for boating here. Not to mention the section past Hluboká, where the backwaters of the Hněvkovická reservoir start, supplying water to the Temelín Nuclear Power Plant. Although it must be noted that the landscape around the reservoir is beautiful.